Activity

In this skill-building class we will practice two historic hand-sewn gathering techniques: stroke gathers and whipped gathers. These two techniques are uniquely suited for hand sewing because they were developed before the sewing machine was invented.

Stroke gathers are used to control light to heavy weight textiles to create cuffs, ruffles and waistbands. Whipped gathers are used to control lightweight linen, silk or cotton to create ruffles, cuffs and waistbands. During the class we will use needle, thread and our hands to stitch two samples: a sample cuff based on a 19th-century shirt and a whipped-gathered ruffle based on Sarah’s study of 18th and 19th-century accessories.

Both create a different but equally clean and beautiful finish. 

As a maker learning these gathering techniques will hone your skills and deeply enhance your sewing practice. If you are a scholar of historic dress, learning these techniques will enhance your hand-sewn literacy when studying historical pieces. Allowing you to confidently identify stroke gathering versus whip gathering. These skills will bring more beauty and more opportunity for hand sewing into your sewing practice. Join Sarah to learn to hand sew from the past, to be more present so we can stitch a better future.

Class level: We suggest that students arrive having taken a basic hand sewing class before from TATTER or elsewhere. Skill wise you need to be able to thread a needle and do a running stitch.

Dates
Wednesday, April 29th, 2026

Time
12:00-2:30 pm ET

Location
Zoom, a link will be sent to participants
the day before class.

Recording

This class will be recorded and the recording will be shared with all participants for one month following the live session. 

Cost
$75

Materials

Note: These two techniques use different fabric weights and materials. Please review each section carefully and prepare the appropriate supplies before class.

Technique 1: Stroke Gathers

Fabric 

• Amount: ½ yard of 58’’-wide lightweight to medium weight linen
  • Lightweight modern muslin may also be used for practice
  • For sample-making, medium weight linen is recommended

Cut Pieces (Prepare Before Class)

• Mock shirt sleeve: 4 x 17.25 inches (10 x 44 cm)
• Mock shirt cuff: 5.5 x 8 inches (14 x 20 cm)

Thread

• Match thread weight to fabric weight
  • For medium weight linen: 60/2 or 80/2 linen thread
  • Alternative: 40-weight hand-quilting cotton (widely available)

Technique 2: Whipped Gathers

Fabric 

• Amount: ½ yard of 58’’-wide lightweight linen or cotton
  • Lightweight modern muslin may also be used for practice 
  • For sample-making, lightweight linen or cotton is recommended

Cut Pieces (Prepare Before Class)

• Band (to attach ruffle): 3 x 10 inches (7.5 x 25 cm)
• Ruffle: 2 x 20 inches (5 x 50 cm)

Thread

• Lightweight silk thread (preferred for strength and delicacy)
  • Recommended: Gutermann silk thread
  • Alternative: 40-weight hand-quilting cotton 

Shared Tools & Supplies (Both Techniques)

• Beeswax: for waxing thread 
• Needles
  • Size 7-10 sharp, appliqué, or embroidery needles
  • Use finer needles (size 9-10) for whipped gathers 
• Pins: super-fine dressmaker pins, 1 ¼” long
• Embroidery scissors: small and very sharp 
• Dressmaker scissors: 8-10 inches (20-25 cm), sharp
• Tape measure or seam gauge 
• Pencil 
• Thimble (optional but encouraged)
  • Should fit the middle finger of your dominant hand 
  • Snug but not tight, secure without slipping off

Reference Video: Cutting Out Textiles 

https://vimeo.com/511387443/9deb7008fe?fl=pl&fe=cm